ABS route

ABS route

Description

The "ABS" at the Karlspitze peak is quite the tour! Few others can match it in terms of views and variety. Just so you know, the initials ABS do not stand for anti-lock braking system, but for the initials of the first climbers. Braking would be no help at all in mastering the route’s eleven pitches (at most in two short passages). The course designed by Andy Schonner and Bernhard Salvenmoser skilfully guides climbers from slabs into cracks and finally into an insanely angular chimney in which full-throttle laybacks are needed to reach the finish. Climbers will need to be up to the challenge. The protection is good but still sometimes tricky and the rappelling back down via route is not exactly beginner-friendly. But if you keep all this in mind, you will surely have fun at the Gaudeamuspfeiler!
 

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Information

  • Start: Wochenbrunner Alm, Ellmau (1,085 m)

    On trail 812, go past the Gaudeamushütte mountain inn and keep heading towards the Ellmauer Tor rock saddle. After the fork onto the Jubiläumssteig trail, turn into the Kübelkar cirque until you are directly below the south face of the Vordere Karlspitze.

    Entry point: Two bolt tours begin on the fall line of the prominent pillar – “ABS” on the left, “Wirtskante” on the right.

  • 2,0

  • Abseil via the route; descent as ascent.

    Refreshment stops nearby: Gaudeamushütte, Wochenbrunner Alm

  • 1,0

  • 50m twinrope, 10 quickdraws, friends and rocks

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Ropelengths

SeillängeLängeGrad
30,0 m 6
40,0 m 6
40,0 m 7-
55,0 m 2
45,0 m 6+
25,0 m 1
40,0 m 6
30,0 m 6+
35,0 m 4
30,0 m 7-
30 m 6

Refreshment stops & infrastructure

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Weather

Today

2024-05-23

12 °C

  • Valley
  • 5 km/h
  • 11° Mountain
  • 75 %

Tomorrow

2024-05-24

17 °C

  • Valley
  • 5 km/h
  • 11° Mountain
  • 65 %

The day after tomorrow

2024-05-25

16 °C

  • Valley
  • 5 km/h
  • 10° Mountain
  • 70 %

2024-05-26

2024-05-26

20 °C

  • Valley
  • 5 km/h
  • 13° Mountain
  • 25 %
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Contact

If you have any questions,we are happy to help.

+43 50509
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