Südpfeiler route

Description

This route was first technically climbed by Seppi Spöck and Jürgen Vogt in 1963 and rated 5b/A1. After being restored by Reini Percht, HP Widmann, Christian Hechenberger and Simon Berger, Simon and Christian were able to free climb the route in 2019. The two lower pitches are challenging. The steep, overhanging dihedral is well secured with bolts and normal hooks. By and large, the rock surface is good except for a few brittle passages. Some friends are recommended as additional safety equipment. The route first extends through the yellow dihedral to the right of the prominent pillar edge, then traverses to the left before running slightly to the left, i.e. directly along the edge. In the upper section (from the 8th pitch), you will arrive at the west rock face (Buhl). Ascend this section to arrive up to the exit.

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Information

Approach
Starting point: Hiking starting point Hüttling, Going (820 m)

Approach via trail 817 to the Ackerlhütte mountain hut and then head towards the Ackerlspitze and Maukspitze peaks. At the Hochgrubachkar cirque, proceed past the remains of the "Alte Ackerlhütte mountain hut." First head slightly downhill then cross through the steep gravel field of the Eastern Hochgrubachkar up to the entry point.

Entry point: Located at the end of the yellow rock face above a large patch of grass where a crack has begun to form
Walk time to entry point (guideline)
2.0
Descent
From the west face exit (Buhl), head into and through the couloir and up to the marked normal route, which leads via the south ramp to the right and to the summit in just a few minutes. Proceed via the marked trail down to the Niedersessel cirque and continue onward via the Hochgrubachkar cirque back to the Ackerlhütte mountain hut. Reverse the route to return.

Refreshment stops nearby:
Ackerlhütte mountain hut (self-catering mountain hut - drinks available on nice-weather weekends in summer)
Obere Regalm mountain hut (Wed, Sat, Sun & holidays when the weather is dry)
Graspoint-Niederalm mountain hut (Fri, Sat, Sun)
Walking time descent (guideline)
2.0
Equipment
60m twinrope, 12 quickdraws, 1 set friends