Sportherz route

Sportherz route

Description

Already a classic of Alpine sport climbing, it was first climbed as early as 1985. The route extends through prime rock. The majority is either compact rock face or slab climbing. The route was revamped in 2004 to feature solid glue-in bolts. The protection is mostly quite good, but in some passages dedicated lead climbing is required.

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Information

  • Starting point: Wochenbrunner Alm, Ellmau (1,085 m)

    Stay on the forest road and later on trail 812 past the Gaudeamushütte mountain hut towards the Ellmauer Tor rock saddle. After the turnoff to the Jubiläumssteig trail, proceed past the Kübelkar cirque and continue towards the Ellmauer Tor rock saddle until directly under the striking Vordere Karlspitze rock face.

    Entry point: There is a short crack. Up and to the left there is a prominent dark overhang that is often wet.

  • 1,5

  • Rappel down via the Matejak chimney (rappel route) and then via the grassy plateau area on the trail.
    The return descent is the same as the approach.

  • 1,5

  • 60m twinrope, 12 quickdraws, friends & rocks medium size

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Ropelengths

SeillängeLängeGrad
25,0 m 7
20,0 m 8-
20,0 m 8 (A0)
50,0 m 5
45,0 m 7
40,0 m 7+
15,0 m 6+
25,0 m 7+
25,0 m 6
35,0 m 5-
30 m 4-

Refreshment stops & infrastructure

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Weather

Today

2024-05-23

12 °C

  • Valley
  • 5 km/h
  • 11° Mountain
  • 75 %

Tomorrow

2024-05-24

17 °C

  • Valley
  • 5 km/h
  • 11° Mountain
  • 65 %

The day after tomorrow

2024-05-25

16 °C

  • Valley
  • 5 km/h
  • 10° Mountain
  • 70 %

2024-05-26

2024-05-26

20 °C

  • Valley
  • 5 km/h
  • 13° Mountain
  • 25 %
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Contact

If you have any questions,we are happy to help.

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